Hour-by-hour · 27 nights · 12 cities

The full itinerary

Day by day, with a mini-map for each stop so you can see where it sits. The three anchors are flagged: 🎂 birthday Dec 22 in Salzburg, 🎄 Christmas in Grindelwald, 🎆 NYE in Paris.

Munich Nuremberg Prague Vienna Salzburg 🎂 Lucerne Grindelwald 🎄 Strasbourg Paris 🎆 Dolomites Florence Rome

Dec 12 · Departure day

Melbourne → Singapore → Munich (~24h with layover)
Travel
Morning

Final pre-flight admin

Activate Airalo Eurolink eSIM in Singapore airspace (not before — saves data). Confirm ETIAS approval emails in your phone gallery. Print backup paper copies of: passport bio pages, first hotel booking, return flight, travel insurance.

~Afternoon

Singapore Airlines MEL → SIN

7h 30m. Sleep on the SIN leg, eat lightly. Don't drink alcohol on the plane (they don't anyway 😉 — but also, dehydration is the real jet-lag enemy. Water + electrolytes.).

Layover

Singapore Changi · 3–6h layover

The best airport in the world. Walk the Jewel waterfall (free), butterfly garden, free movie theatre at T3. Shower in Ambassador Transit Lounge (~SG$40 with the connecting boarding pass). Eat at the food court — A$10 hawker beats A$30 plane meal.

Overnight

SIN → MUC overnight (13h)

Set your watch to Munich time when you board. Sleep what you can. Window seat = views over Mongolia / Russia / Central Europe. Eat the breakfast served before landing — sets the new clock.

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Munich · Bavaria

DEC 13 – DEC 14 · 2 NIGHTS

Your gateway to Europe. Christmas markets in peak season, Bavarian beer halls (you can sip Spezi, no judgement), and a slow-paced first 36h to recover from the long-haul.

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Day 1 · Sunday Dec 13 — Arrival

Munich Airport → Marienplatz · jet-lag recovery
Arrival
~07:00

Land Munich MUC

Immigration: have ETIAS confirmation + return-flight printout ready. Bag claim → Reisebank ATM for €100 starter cash → S-Bahn S1 or S8 to Marienplatz (~45 min). Buy an Airport-City Day-Group ticket (€15 for both, covers all transit all day).

€15 ≈ A$25
09:30

Drop bags at hotel/Airbnb · don't sleep

Check-in is 15:00 but they'll always store bags. Resist the bed. Sleeping now wrecks jet-lag recovery. Wash face, fresh layer, walk out.

10:00

Breakfast at Café Frischhut "Schmalznudel"

5 min from Marienplatz. They make 4 things — order 2 Schmalznudel + 2 Apfelkücherl + hot chocolate. Stand at the bar with locals. €15 for both.

11:00

Marienplatz Christkindlmarkt

11:00 Glockenspiel chimes for 12 minutes. Try Lebkuchen, roasted chestnuts, alcohol-free Kinderpunsch (€4 + €3 mug deposit — refund or keep as souvenir).

13:00

Viktualienmarkt for lunch

Open-air food hall, heated under canopies. Goulash soup, giant Brez'n with Obatzda. ~€30 for both.

15:00

Check in · 1-hour nap (set 2 alarms!)

Cap at 60 min. Drink a glass of water before sleeping.

16:30

English Garden · Eisbach surfers

Watch surfers ride the standing wave at -2°C. Climb the Chinesischer Turm for sunset over snowy parkland. Free.

19:00

Dinner at Wirtshaus Ayinger

Cosier than Hofbräuhaus. Schweinshaxe (crackling pork knuckle) + Käsespätzle + Spezi (cola + Fanta mix). €55 for two.

21:30

Back to hotel · sleep

You'll be wrecked. Blackout curtains, eye masks, alarms set.

Day 2 · Monday Dec 14 — Full Munich day

Old town · palaces · Christmas markets
Big day
09:00

Hotel breakfast or bakery (Rischart, Kurz & Knapp)

Hotel buffet €38pp is amazing once. Otherwise a bakery: pretzel + cheese spread + coffee for €8.

10:30

Climb St. Peter's Church (Alter Peter)

306 steps. €5pp. Iconic panorama of Rathaus + Frauenkirche + snowy rooftops.

11:30

Residenz Munich — Bavarian palace

€16 for both. Audioguide. Antiquarium is stunning. ~2h.

13:30

Lunch at Schneider Bräuhaus

Wurstplatte for two + sauerkraut + dumpling. €45.

15:30

Christmas market crawl

Marienplatz (traditional) → Residenz Christkindl (artisan, palace courtyard) → Sendlinger Tor (medieval theme). All within 20 min walk.

19:30

Dinner at Spatenhaus an der Oper

Most romantic in town. Upper floor white tablecloths. Tafelspitz + Kaiserschmarrn. €110 for two.

22:00

Pack for Nuremberg · 1h10 train tomorrow

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Nuremberg

DEC 15 · 1 NIGHT

Home of the Christkindlesmarkt — the world's most famous Christmas market (since 1628). Gingerbread (Lebkuchen) was invented here.

Christmas market capital
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Day 3 · Tuesday Dec 15

Munich → (optional Rothenburg stop) → Nuremberg
Travel + market
09:00

Option A — Direct: Munich → Nuremberg (1h10 ICE)

Trains every 30 min from München Hbf. €40pp advance, or Eurail. Arrive Nuremberg ~11:00.

€80 ≈ A$132
Alt

Option B — Rothenburg detour (recommended if time allows)

Munich → Rothenburg ob der Tauber (3h via Steinach with luggage), 3h in the fairytale walled town for lunch + walk the medieval walls + see the Christmas market + buy a Käthe Wohlfahrt ornament, then onward → Nuremberg (1h30). Arrive Nuremberg by ~18:00. Eurail pass makes this free; otherwise ~€60pp.

€120 ≈ A$198 (or free with Eurail)
12:00

Drop bags · Hotel Drei Raben or Airbnb · lunch at Bratwursthäusle

The Nuremberg sausage specialist. "3 im Weckla" — 3 mini-sausages in a bun with mustard. €15 for both.

14:00

Nuremberg Castle (Kaiserburg)

€9pp combined ticket. Imperial Holy-Roman residence. Climb Sinwell Tower. The Deep Well is hauntingly cool.

16:00

Christkindlesmarkt at Hauptmarkt

180+ stalls around Frauenkirche. Original Nürnberger Rostbratwürste in a bun. Lebkuchen-Schmidt for the gingerbread (origin shop in the square). Brass quartet plays hourly.

18:00

Henkersteg (Hangman's Bridge) at dusk

Covered medieval bridge with lanterns. Walk past Albrecht-Dürer-Haus.

19:30

Dinner at Heilig Geist Spital

14th-c. former hospital — the restaurant literally spans the Pegnitz river. Schäuferla (slow-roast pork) + Sauerbraten. €90 for two.

22:00

Early sleep · 4-5h train to Prague tomorrow

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Prague · Czechia

DEC 16 – DEC 17 · 2 NIGHTS

"The City of a Hundred Spires" — Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau in layers. Snow on the Astronomical Clock, mist on the Vltava, and the cheapest food + drink of your trip.

Uses CZK · ~17 = €1
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Heads-up: Czech Koruna

Don't change cash at the yellow "Exchange" booths near Charles Bridge — 30% hidden margins. Use Wise card or bank ATMs only. (See Safety page for the full Prague scam list.)

Day 4 · Wednesday Dec 16

Nuremberg → Prague · Old Town Square
Travel + sights
08:30

EC train Nuremberg → Prague (4h45 direct)

EuroCity, no changes. €40pp advance or Eurail. Stunning Vltava valley views from Děčín onwards.

€80 ≈ A$132
13:30

Arrive Praha hl.n. · metro → Old Town · check in

Metro Line C to Můstek, 5 min walk. CZK 80 for both. Drop bags at Airbnb/Hotel U Prince.

14:30

Lunch at Lokál Dlouhááá

Svíčková (sirloin in cream sauce + bread dumplings + cranberry + whipped cream — sounds wild, tastes great). CZK 800 for two ≈ A$70.

16:00

Old Town Square Christmas Market

Astronomical Clock chimes hourly with apostle parade. Hot trdelník (chimney cake) fresh off the spit — NOT from the freezer-thawed ones (look for stalls actively grilling). Punč alc-free at every stall.

17:00

Old Town Hall Tower elevator

CZK 300pp. Best photo of snowy Prague rooftops + Týn Church spires.

18:30

Charles Bridge at twilight

30 statues, 600m, dating from 1357. Best at dusk when day-tour crowds thin.

19:30

Dinner at U Modré Kachničky (Blue Duckling)

Malá Strana, hand-painted walls, 5 small rooms — romantic. Roast duck + red cabbage + dumplings. CZK 1,900 for two ≈ A$167.

Day 5 · Thursday Dec 17

Prague Castle + Jewish Quarter
Big day
09:00

Breakfast at Café Savoy

1893 Neo-Renaissance ceiling. Eggs Benedict + fresh OJ. CZK 600.

10:30

Prague Castle (Circuit B)

CZK 450pp — St. Vitus Cathedral + Old Royal Palace + St. George's Basilica + Golden Lane. World's largest ancient castle complex. 2.5h.

13:30

Lunch at U Černého Vola

600-yr-old tavern next to castle. Pork knee with horseradish + mustard + pickles. CZK 800.

15:30

Tram 22 → Jewish Quarter (Josefov)

Combined ticket CZK 500pp: 6 synagogues + Old Jewish Cemetery + Pinkas Synagogue (78,000 Holocaust victim names painted on walls). Sobering, essential.

17:30

Hot chocolate at Cukrkávalimonáda or Café Imperial

Cukrkáva = literal melted chocolate. Imperial = Art Nouveau ceramic tile temple. Pick one.

19:30

Dinner: Mlejnice (rustic Czech, CZK 1,500) or La Degustation 1-Michelin (CZK 8,400)

Pick splurge or homely. Both excellent.

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Vienna · Austria

DEC 18 – DEC 19 · 2 NIGHTS

Imperial palaces, the world's best café culture (UNESCO-listed), and the spiritual home of cake-as-a-meal.

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Day 6 · Friday Dec 18

Prague → Vienna · Imperial old town
Travel + sights
08:30

Railjet Prague → Vienna (4h direct)

ÖBB. €50pp advance or Eurail. Lovely south-Czech countryside.

€100 ≈ A$165
12:30

Arrive Wien Hbf · U-Bahn U1 → Stephansplatz · check in

€4.80 for both. Drop bags.

13:30

Lunch at Plachutta (Wollzeile)

Tafelspitz — boiled beef in broth. Theatre at the table. €100 for two.

15:30

Stephansdom Cathedral + South Tower (Steffl)

€6pp tower, 343 stairs. Inside cathedral free.

17:00

Rathausplatz Christmas Market — the grandest in the world

Half a million lights. Ice-skating loop through the gardens (€9 rentals). Stay 90 min.

19:30

Dinner at Figlmüller Wollzeile

Schnitzel bigger than the plate. Share one. €55 for two.

22:00

Sachertorte nightcap at Café Sacher

Open till midnight. Original Sachertorte + Mélange. Tiny dark-chocolate Sacher seal — keep it.

Day 7 · Saturday Dec 19

Schönbrunn + Belvedere
Palace day
09:30

U4 → Schönbrunn Palace · Imperial Tour

€27pp pre-booked. 22 rooms, audioguide. Hall of Mirrors where 6-yr-old Mozart played for Empress Maria Theresa.

11:30

Schönbrunn Christmas Market

In the palace courtyard. Most photogenic market in Vienna.

13:30

Lunch at Café Gloriette inside the gardens

15-min walk up the hill. Heated pavilion. Wiener Würstel + Apfelstrudel.

15:30

Belvedere Palace — see Klimt's "The Kiss"

€17.50pp. World's largest Klimt collection.

19:30

Dinner at Café Central — Trotsky's chess spot

Vienna's most beautiful café interior. Wiener Schnitzel + Apfelstrudel + Mélange. Piano plays softly.

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Salzburg

DEC 20 – DEC 22 · 3 NIGHTS · 🎂 BIRTHDAY DEC 22

Mozart's birthplace, Sound of Music village, baroque UNESCO snowglobe. The Silent Night Chapel is 15 min away — where the carol was written.

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Day 8 · Sunday Dec 20 — Arrival

Vienna → Salzburg · old town + Mozart
Travel + arrival
09:00

Railjet Vienna → Salzburg (2h22 direct)

€30pp advance. Sit left for Wachau valley views.

€60 ≈ A$99
11:30

Check in · walk to old town across the river

Salzburg is small — 15 min walk old town to anywhere.

12:30

Lunch at Café Tomaselli (since 1700)

Mozart's actual café. Wiener Würstel + Esterházy torte + Maria Theresia hot chocolate. €38.

14:00

Mirabell Gardens — "Do-Re-Mi" steps

Free. Fountain + steps + Pegasus statue. Sound of Music photo moment.

15:00

Christkindlmarkt at Domplatz

Between cathedral + Residenz, fortress looming above. Handmade ornaments.

16:30

Festung Hohensalzburg by funicular

€16.30pp incl funicular + audioguide. Sunset from the ramparts is unreal.

19:30

Dinner at St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

Oldest restaurant in Europe (803 AD). Carved into rock of St. Peter's Abbey. Medieval-style menu. €140 for two. Book ahead.

Day 9 · Monday Dec 21 — Hallstatt day trip

Salzburg → Hallstatt → Salzburg (full day)
Day trip

Why Day 9 for Hallstatt (not Day 10)

Hallstatt is 2.5h each way = a 5h-travel day. Doing it on Dec 21 leaves Dec 22 (birthday) free in Salzburg — no rushed train back for the dinner reservation. You can also skip Hallstatt entirely if it feels like too much travel; everything in Salzburg + Sound of Music is enough on its own.

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07:30

Train Salzburg → Hallstatt (2h30 via Attnang-Puchheim)

€25pp each way or Eurail. Reserve the ferry meets every train.

€50 return ≈ A$83
10:00

Ferry across the lake + village walk

5 min ferry, €4 return. Walk to Marktplatz. The "viral photo" angle is from the eastern path looking back at the village — 10 min walk past the Catholic church.

11:30

Salzwelten Salt Mine + funicular

€40 for both incl funicular. 7,000-yr-old salt mine — world's oldest. 60m wooden miners' slide. The Skywalk platform glass-floor terrace is the photo.

13:30

Lunch at Restaurant Bräugasthof (lakeside, since 1472)

Reinanke (small alpine whitefish, lightly pan-fried) — Hallstatt specialty. €60.

15:00

Bone House (Beinhaus) + Catholic Church on the hill

2-room ossuary with 1,200 hand-painted skulls (since 1700s — cemetery filled up). Macabre + beautiful. €3pp.

16:30

Lakefront walk · hot chocolate · Christmas market browse

Last light over the lake. Tiny ~12-stall market by the Marktplatz.

18:00

Train back to Salzburg (2h30) · arrive ~20:30

21:00

Light dinner at hotel / pizza near old town

Save space — birthday dinner is tomorrow.

Day 10 · Tuesday Dec 22 — 🎂 BIRTHDAY DAY

Slow Salzburg morning · Mozartkugel · birthday dinner
BIRTHDAY
08:00

Birthday morning surprise

Pre-arrange with hotel/Airbnb host (when you book): flowers + small cake + handwritten note in room. ~€50. Coffee + cake in bed before anything else.

10:30

Slow breakfast at Café Bazar (riverside)

Heated terrace overlooking the Salzach. Linger.

12:00

Mozart's Birthplace · Getreidegasse 9

€13.50pp. The actual 18th-c. apartment.

13:30

Lunch at Triangel (cosy Salzburg classic)

Order Salzburger Nockerl — the legendary 3 mountainous baked-egg-white "peaks" symbolising the 3 mountains around the city. Made to order, 15 min wait. €80 for two.

15:30

🎵 Silent Night Chapel pilgrimage (Oberndorf, bus 120, 25 min)

Stille-Nacht-Kapelle: where the carol was first sung Christmas Eve 1818. Free. Museum next door €4pp. They sing the carol in the chapel daily at 17:00 in Dec — time your visit for that. The most magical 30 min of the trip.

18:30

Hot chocolate at Café-Konditorei Fürst · pick up Mozartkugel

Home of the original Mozartkugel (1890). Velvet back room. €20.

19:30

🎂 BIRTHDAY DINNER — Restaurant Esszimmer (1 Michelin)

In the old town. Modern Austrian, alc-free pairings available. Tasting menu €145pp. €290 for two. Book 4+ weeks ahead. Alternative: Magazin (€220 for two, more relaxed but excellent).

22:30

Quiet walk across the river · fortress glowing on the hill

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Lucerne · Switzerland

DEC 23 – DEC 24 · 2 NIGHTS

Wooden Chapel Bridge, painted facades, alpine lake. The cosy lead-up to Christmas, before you head up to Grindelwald for the big day.

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Switzerland = CHF, not EUR

1 CHF ≈ A$1.75. Most places accept EUR at a bad rate. Use your card or pull CHF cash at Zurich airport ATM on transit. Switzerland is ~30% more expensive than its neighbours.

Day 11 · Wednesday Dec 23 — Arrival

Salzburg → Lucerne (long travel day) · Chapel Bridge
Long travel
08:00

Check out · Train Salzburg → Lucerne (5h45 via Zurich)

Railjet to Zurich (~5h), change, IR to Lucerne (47 min). Eurail covers all of this. €120pp point-to-point.

€240 ≈ A$396 or covered by Eurail
14:00

Arrive Lucerne · check in (Airbnb or Hotel Schweizerhof)

5-min walk from station.

15:30

Walk the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke)

14th-c. covered wooden bridge with 17th-c. paintings in the rafters. Free. Walk it slowly.

16:30

Old town painted facades + Lion Monument + Weinmarkt Square

Free wander. Mark Twain called the Lion "the most mournful piece of stone in the world".

18:30

Cheese fondue at Swiss Chuchi (Hotel Adler)

Moitié-Moitié (half Gruyère, half Vacherin Fribourgeois). Apfelschorle to drink. Don't let the bread fall in. CHF 110 for two.

21:00

Walk old town under the Christmas lights

Day 12 · Thursday Dec 24 — Christmas Eve

Mt. Rigi (or relax) · Christmas Eve dinner
CHRISTMAS EVE
09:00

Boat across Lake Lucerne → Vitznau → Cogwheel rail to Rigi Kulm (1,798m)

CHF 110pp combined. 1h scenic boat + 30 min cogwheel up. 360° panorama of 13 lakes + Alps.

CHF 220 ≈ A$385
12:30

Summit lunch — Rigi Kulm Hotel · "Rigi Rösti"

Potato pancake topped with bacon + cheese + fried egg. CHF 60.

14:30

Sled or hike down to Rigi Kaltbad · cable car to Weggis · boat back

Sled rental CHF 12pp. Gentle 2.5km descent. Cable car + boat included in pass.

17:30

Hot shower · Christmas Eve dress-up

19:00

Christmas Eve dinner at Wirtshaus Galliker

5th-generation grandma's kitchen. Order Chügelipastete (Lucerne specialty: puff-pastry vol-au-vent with veal in cream-mushroom sauce). CHF 110 for two. Note: many restaurants close early or fully on Dec 24 — book NOW.

22:30

Midnight Mass at the Lucerne Hofkirche

Twin-spire Renaissance church. Free, atmospheric, candle-lit. Even non-religious — go for the experience.

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Grindelwald · Swiss Alps

DEC 25 – DEC 28 · 4 NIGHTS · 🎄 CHRISTMAS DAY ARRIVAL

Under the Eiger's 1,800m north face. Wooden chalets, deep snow, the village goes silent on Christmas. Your main Swiss alpine stay — 4 nights for proper exploring.

✓ Staying at Chalet Gletscherliechtli · details

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Day 13 · Friday Dec 25 — 🎄 CHRISTMAS DAY

Lucerne → Grindelwald via scenic train · settle in
CHRISTMAS DAY
09:30

Christmas morning · gift exchange · breakfast

Open small gifts together. Coffee + Bircher muesli. The day is yours; the train is later.

11:30

Train Lucerne → Interlaken Ost (Luzern-Interlaken Express, 1h50)

Possibly the most scenic train in Switzerland. 5 lakes, 2 passes (Brünig). Panorama windows. Sit on the right. Reserve seats. Eat lunch on board or in Interlaken.

CHF 73 ≈ A$128 + reservation CHF 8
14:00

Change at Interlaken Ost → Grindelwald Terminal (35 min cogwheel)

Sit on the right. Cogwheel climbs into the Bernese Oberland — Eiger appears.

15:00

✓ Check in: Chalet Gletscherliechtli

Private alpine chalet — your Christmas HQ for 4 nights. Check-in window 15:00–20:00. Pick up keys, settle in, light the wood-stove. Important: chalet has no on-site restaurant, so reserve a village dinner spot for Christmas night NOW if not already (most close Dec 25 evening — try Hotel Belvedere, Hotel Spinne, or Kirchbühl Christmas gala menus). Booking details →

17:00

Village walk · Christmas tree at the train station square

The whole village smells of woodsmoke. Coop supermarket open till 18:00 — grab Lebkuchen + hand-warmers + alpine snacks for the days ahead. Stock up on breakfast supplies since you're self-catering at the chalet.

19:00

Christmas Day dinner at a village restaurant

Your pre-booked 4-course gala somewhere in the village (Hotel Belvedere or Spinne typically run CHF 130–150pp). 5–10 min walk back to the chalet under the stars.

22:00

Stargaze from the balcony

Bortle 3 dark sky. Wrap in hotel blankets. Milky Way over the Eiger.

Day 14 · Saturday Dec 26 — Boxing Day

Jungfraujoch "Top of Europe"
Big day
08:30

Check weather + book Jungfraujoch (CHF 240pp)

Don't pre-book — Top of Europe is weather-dependent. If clouds: swap for First Cliff Walk + cable car (CHF 64pp). If clear: GO.

10:00

Eiger Express gondola → Eigergletscher → Jungfrau Railway → Jungfraujoch (3,454m)

Europe's highest railway station. Ice Palace, Sphinx Observatory at 3,571m, Aletsch Glacier view (longest in Europe), Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven (free chocolate!).

CHF 480 ≈ A$840 for both
13:00

Lunch at Restaurant Crystal (on Jungfraujoch)

Älplermagronen (alpine mac & cheese with apple sauce). CHF 60.

15:30

Back down · spa or village walk

19:30

Dinner at Onkel Tom's Hütte

Log-cabin pizzeria. Yes, pizza in the Alps — but the wood-fire oven is the real deal. CHF 75.

Day 15 · Sunday Dec 27 — First Cliff Walk + sledding

Cable car day · adrenalin + chocolate
Alpine day
09:00

Firstbahn cable car to First (2,168m)

CHF 64pp return. 25 min ride up.

10:00

First Cliff Walk + (optional) First Flyer zipline

Cliff Walk = steel walkway hugging the cliff face, free with cable car. First Flyer = 800m zipline at 84 km/h, CHF 31pp. First Glider = lying flat like a bird, CHF 31pp.

12:30

Lunch at Berggasthaus First

Big windows facing the Eiger. Sausage + Rösti. CHF 50.

14:30

Sled down from Bussalp

Bus to Bussalp, rent toboggans CHF 22pp, descend 4km in ~30 min. Do it 2–3 times.

17:30

Wind down · spa or chalet hot bath

Check what wellness the chalet has (sauna/tub if any). Otherwise: day-pass at Sportzentrum Grindelwald (pool + sauna, CHF 18pp) or the spa at Hotel Belvedere (~CHF 35pp day-pass). Earned it after First Cliff Walk + sledding.

19:30

Dinner at C&M Restaurant

Trendy spot, lighter food than the alpine cabins. Wood-fire pizzas, modern pastas. CHF 90.

Day 16 · Monday Dec 28 — Lauterbrunnen + Mürren / Wengen

Tolkien's "Rivendell" valley · car-free villages
Valley day
09:30

Train Grindelwald → Lauterbrunnen (40 min via Interlaken Ost)

72 waterfalls cascade down 300m cliffs. The Staubbach Fall freezes into a giant ice ribbon in late Dec.

10:30

Pick one: Mürren OR Wengen (both car-free)

Mürren (1,650m) — frozen-in-time mountain village, 350 residents, sweeping Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau view. Cable car + train. Wengen (1,275m) — slightly larger, train-only access, gentle sledding runs. Pick one or do half-day of each.

12:00

Optional: Schilthorn / Piz Gloria (James Bond film set)

Cable car continues up from Mürren to 2,970m. 50-min revolving restaurant. Tourist trap but a glorious one. CHF 108pp return + CHF 55pp lunch.

CHF 326 ≈ A$571 (optional)
15:00

Trümmelbach Falls (10 glacier waterfalls inside a mountain)

CHF 14pp. Open in winter. Spooky, dramatic, loud.

17:00

Back to Grindelwald · hot bath · pack for Strasbourg

19:30

Final Swiss dinner — fondue at La Marmite

Last Swiss-cheese ritual. CHF 100 for two.

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Strasbourg · Alsace

DEC 29 · 1 NIGHT

The "Capitale de Noël" — Europe's oldest Christmas market (1570), still going. Half-timbered houses on canals, Cathedral 142m high (tallest in the world for 200+ years). One magical night before Paris.

Alsace charm
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Day 17 · Tuesday Dec 29

Grindelwald → Strasbourg · Alsace Christmas magic
Long travel + market
07:00

Chalet check-out · pack & leave keys

Check-out window 08:00–11:00, but with a 07:30 train you'll be out by 07:00. Strip the bed if the chalet asks, take rubbish out, leave keys as instructed by host.

07:30

Train Grindelwald → Interlaken Ost → Basel SBB → Strasbourg (5h30 total)

Eurail covers it. Cross-border at Basel. €60pp point-to-point.

€120 ≈ A$198 or Eurail
13:00

Arrive Strasbourg · drop bags at hotel (5 min walk from Gare)

14:00

Lunch at Maison Kammerzell (1427, painted facade)

Most photographed building in Strasbourg, restaurant inside. Tarte flambée (Alsatian thin-crust with crème fraîche + onions + bacon). €60 for two.

15:30

Strasbourg Cathedral

Free entry. Don't miss the Astronomical Clock at 12:30 if you arrive early. Climb the platform (332 steps, €8pp) for panorama. Pink-Vosges sandstone glowing at sunset.

17:00

Christmas Market at Place Broglie + Place Kléber

The 30m Christmas tree at Kléber is THE photo. 300+ chalets across multiple squares. Try bredele (Alsatian Christmas cookies), pain d'épices (Alsatian gingerbread), vin chaud sans alcool (warm grape/apple juice with spices), kougelhopf cake.

19:00

Walk Petite France canals at night

Half-timbered houses reflecting in the Ill river canals, lit up. Most romantic 30 min of the trip arguably. Free.

20:00

Dinner at Au Crocodile (Michelin, splurge) or Chez Yvonne (homey winstub)

Crocodile = €180pp tasting. Yvonne = €80 for two, choucroute garnie (Alsatian sauerkraut platter) + flammkuchen.

22:30

Pack for Paris · 1h45 TGV tomorrow

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Paris

DEC 30 – JAN 1 · 3 NIGHTS · 🎆 NYE DEC 31

Three days. Eiffel. Louvre. Champs-Élysées NYE — 1.5M people, light show on the Arc, Eiffel sparkles at midnight. Most photogenic NYE on earth.

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Day 18 · Wednesday Dec 30 — Arrival

Strasbourg → Paris · Louvre + Tuileries + Eiffel sunset
Travel + iconic Paris
08:30

TGV Strasbourg → Paris Gare de l'Est (1h45)

€60pp advance, fastest TGV in France. Arrives central Paris.

€120 ≈ A$198
10:30

Métro → Saint-Germain (Airbnb) · drop bags

€4.80 for 2 single tickets, or buy Navigo Easy and load Day Passes for 3 days.

12:00

Brunch at Café de Flore

Sartre's old hangout. Croque-monsieur, café crème, fresh OJ. €40 for two.

13:30

Louvre — pre-booked 14:00 entry

€22pp. Mona Lisa first (empty for 15 min if you rush there), Winged Victory, Venus de Milo. Cap at 2.5h or you'll glaze over.

16:30

Hot chocolate at Angelina (226 Rue de Rivoli)

THE Parisian hot chocolate — thick like ganache. Order the Mont-Blanc pastry. €25.

17:30

Tuileries Christmas Village + Ferris wheel

€12pp wheel. Panorama over Concorde + Louvre + Eiffel.

18:30

Eiffel Tower summit at sunset · pre-booked

Book 60 days out, sunset slot. €30pp summit (276m). Stay till the on-the-hour sparkle.

€60 ≈ A$99
20:30

Dinner at Les Ombres (rooftop, Musée du Quai Branly)

Glass-roof restaurant, Eiffel literally fills the window. €120 for two — book ahead.

Day 19 · Thursday Dec 31 — 🎆 NYE

Slow morning · early dinner · Champs-Élysées midnight
NYE
10:00

Brunch at Holybelly (10ème)

Aussie-owned Paris brunch. Pancakes with bourbon caramel (skip if alc), eggs Benedict. €50.

12:30

Musée d'Orsay (closes ~17:00 NYE)

€16pp. Impressionist heaven. Van Gogh's self-portrait, Monet's water lilies.

15:30

Tea at Mariage Frères (Saint-Germain)

1854 tea house. 1,000 teas. Earl Grey French Blue + fig-orange tea cake. €30 for two.

17:00

Hotel break · dress for NYE

NYE bag essentials: hand warmers, water, snacks, fully charged phones, ID, power bank, gloves, beanies. Champs closes to cars from ~20:00.

19:30

EARLY NYE dinner — Le Petit Cler

Do NOT do a long midnight dinner. Eat early, walk to Champs after. Le Petit Cler is bistro classics, 12-min walk to Concorde. €70 for two.

22:00

Walk down the closed Champs-Élysées

Enter at Place de la Concorde end. Aim for a spot ~150m up, looking toward Arc de Triomphe. 1.5M people. Bag stays in front of you — pickpockets work this crowd hard (see Safety).

23:50

🎆 MIDNIGHT

8-min son-et-lumière projection on the Arc leading to midnight. At 00:00: fireworks from the Arc, Eiffel (distance) sparkles, "Bonne Année !" Kisses, photos.

00:30

Walk back via the Seine — métro is free + chaotic

Walking down the Seine at 1am on New Year's, hand in hand — the moment of the trip.

Day 20 · Friday Jan 1 — Bonne Année

Slow recovery · Notre-Dame + Sainte-Chapelle + Seine cruise
Recovery
11:00

Late hotel/Airbnb breakfast

13:00

Île de la Cité · Sainte-Chapelle + Notre-Dame

Sainte-Chapelle €13pp — 13th-c. stained glass, 15m of glass on every wall. Notre-Dame free (reopened Dec 2024). €26 for both.

15:00

Lunch at Café Saint-Régis (Île Saint-Louis)

Quintessential Paris café on the prettiest island. €60.

17:00

Berthillon ice cream (yes, in January)

Salted caramel + chestnut. Locals do it. €10.

18:30

Seine dinner cruise — Bateaux Mouches

90-min glass-roofed boat. €100pp with 3-course dinner. Eiffel sparkles at 19:00 mid-cruise. Book NOW. €200 for two.

21:30

Pack for the Dolomites · early flight tomorrow

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🎿

Dolomites · Ortisei (Val Gardena)

JAN 2 – JAN 3 · 2 NIGHTS · Ski stop

Pink-orange Dolomite peaks at sunrise ("enrosadira"). Italian alpine villages with Ladin language + cuisine + Italian coffee. Val Gardena is the most beginner-friendly + scenic ski area in the Dolomites — way better for first-timers than Cortina.

UNESCO heritage peaks
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Ortisei vs Cortina — my pick

Ortisei (Val Gardena) wins for: beginner slopes (Alpe di Siusi = largest high-altitude meadow in Europe, full of gentle runs), better value, more authentic Italian-Ladin culture, easier access from Venice/Bolzano. Cortina wins for: prestige, more luxury hotels, higher altitude. Both work. Picked Ortisei here — swap if you prefer.

Day 21 · Saturday Jan 2 — Travel + ski lesson

Paris → Venice flight → Ortisei transfer
Travel + ski
07:30

Taxi/RER → CDG · ITA Airways AZ325 09:30 → Venice 11:45

2h15 flight. €130pp incl bag advance fare. Cheapest option Paris → Dolomites.

€260 ≈ A$429
12:30

Pre-booked shuttle transfer Venice airport → Ortisei (2h45)

Cortina Express or Südtirol Transfer. ~€80pp each way. Door-to-door to your hotel.

€160 ≈ A$264
15:30

Arrive Ortisei · check in · pick up ski gear

Skiset or Sport Sanin: €40pp/day full set (skis, boots, poles, helmet). Dolomiti Superski day pass €72pp/day, or 2-day €138pp.

€296 (rental + 2-day pass for both) ≈ A$489
17:30

Cable car Ortisei → Alpe di Siusi · sunset photo

Free village walk afterwards. The pink-orange peaks at golden hour = enrosadira.

19:30

Dinner at Restaurant Anna Stuben (1-Michelin, in Hotel Gardena)

Modern Alpine-Italian tasting menu €150pp. Or Restaurant Concordia for traditional Ladin food at €70 for two.

Day 22 · Sunday Jan 3 — Full ski day

Alpe di Siusi beginner slopes + ski school
Ski day
08:00

Hotel breakfast · gear up

SPF on face (snow glare doubles UV), thermals, 2 pairs socks, goggles, gloves, helmet.

09:30

Cable car → Alpe di Siusi · ski school

Scuola Sci Selva or Snowsports Ortisei — 3h group beginner lesson €175pp. Instructor speaks English. By lunch you'll be on gentle blue runs.

€350 ≈ A$578
13:00

Mountain lunch at Rifugio Sanon

Sun-deck. Canederli (South-Tyrolean bread dumplings) + speck + Apfelstrudel. €60 for two.

14:30

Free skiing on green runs

Practice slowly. Fall on purpose — falling well is the most useful skill.

16:30

Hot tub / spa at hotel

Most Ortisei hotels have a wellness centre — claim your free spa time.

19:30

Dinner at Plan Murin (cosy alpine, Val Gardena classic)

Genuine Ladin food: schlutzkrapfen (spinach + ricotta ravioli), goulash, Kaiserschmarrn. €80 for two.

22:00

Pack for Florence — 4–5h transfer + train tomorrow

🇮🇹
🎨

Florence · Tuscany

JAN 4 – JAN 5 · 2 NIGHTS

Renaissance art capital, Tuscan kitchen, Ponte Vecchio at dusk. Off-season Florence (Jan) = 30% of summer crowds, 100% of the magic.

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Day 23 · Monday Jan 4 — Travel + Duomo

Ortisei → Bolzano → Florence (~5h)
Travel + Duomo
08:00

Bus 350 Ortisei → Bolzano (1h)

€7pp. Departs hourly.

09:30

Frecciarossa Bolzano → Florence SMN (3h)

€65pp advance. 300 km/h direct. Eurail covers + reservation €13.

€130 ≈ A$215
13:00

Arrive Florence · check in · lunch at Trattoria Mario

No bookings, shared tables, cash only. Bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone Chianina, share a half-kg), pappardelle al cinghiale (boar pasta). €60 for two. Open lunch only.

15:00

Climb the Duomo dome — pre-booked 15:30

Brunelleschi's masterpiece. €30pp combo (Duomo + Baptistery + Campanile + Crypt). 463 steps inside the dome. Orange-rooftop panorama.

17:30

Ponte Vecchio at golden hour · Piazzale Michelangelo for sunset

15-min uphill walk to Piazzale. The classic Florence panorama photo.

19:30

Dinner at La Giostra (book 2+ weeks ahead)

Run by Prince Dimitri D'Asburgo-Lorena. Romantic, fairy-lights, free amuse-bouches. Pear-and-pecorino ravioli, tiramisù tableside. €120 for two.

Day 24 · Tuesday Jan 5 — Uffizi + David

The Renaissance day
Big day
08:30

Breakfast at Ditta Artigianale (single-origin coffee)

Modern Italian café. Best coffee in Florence. €15.

09:30

Uffizi Gallery — pre-booked 09:30 entry

€25pp. Botticelli's Birth of Venus + Primavera, Caravaggio's Medusa, Leonardo, Michelangelo. 2.5h minimum.

12:30

Accademia — Michelangelo's David

€16pp pre-booked. 5m tall, somehow more impressive in person. 30 min, leave.

13:30

Lunch at Mercato Centrale (upstairs food hall)

Lampredotto (Florence tripe sandwich — brave or curious), schiacciata sandwiches, fresh pasta. €40.

15:30

Walk Oltrarno · Palazzo Pitti + Boboli Gardens

€22pp combined. Quiet in winter, lemon trees in giant pots.

17:30

Gelato at Gelateria della Passera or La Carraia

Way better than the tourist places near Duomo. Ricotta-fig + pistachio. €8.

19:30

Dinner at Cantinetta Antinori (Renaissance palace setting)

Tuscan classics in the Palazzo Antinori. Pici al ragù, bistecca, cantucci with espresso (instead of vin santo). €110 for two.

🇮🇹
🏛

Rome · final stop

JAN 6 – JAN 8 · 3 NIGHTS · FINAL STOP

Colosseum, Vatican, Pantheon, Trevi. 3 days to soak in 2,000 years. Then fly home from FCO via Singapore.

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Day 25 · Wednesday Jan 6 — Befana (Italian holiday) + ancient centre

Florence → Rome (1h32) · Spanish Steps + Trevi
Travel + arrival

Jan 6 = La Befana (Italian public holiday)

Many small shops + restaurants closed. Booked sites and museums stay open. Streets quieter — actually a lovely arrival day. Befana witch costumes everywhere.

09:30

Frecciarossa Florence → Rome Termini (1h32)

€45pp advance.

€90 ≈ A$149
11:30

Taxi → Trastevere or Monti Airbnb · drop bags

€15 taxi, 10 min.

13:00

Lunch at Da Enzo al 29 (Trastevere, no reservations — get there 12:30)

Carbonara done properly (NO cream — egg + pecorino + guanciale + pepper), fried artichokes alla giudia, tiramisù in a Coppetta. €70 for two.

15:00

Walk: Piazza del Popolo → Spanish Steps → Trevi Fountain

15-min walk. Coin in Trevi (right hand over left shoulder) guarantees a return.

17:30

Aperitivo snacks at Salotto 42 (chinotto soda)

Books-and-snacks lounge on Piazza di Pietra. €30.

19:30

Dinner at Armando al Pantheon (book 4 wks ahead)

Right by the Pantheon, family-run since 1961. Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, abbacchio. €100 for two.

22:00

Night gelato at Giolitti (since 1900)

Pistachio + nocciola. €10.

Day 26 · Thursday Jan 7 — Vatican

Vatican Museums + Sistine Chapel + St Peter's
Big day
07:30

Vatican Museums + Sistine Chapel — pre-booked early access

€20pp + €5 fee for general. Better: 3rd-party "early access" tour €80pp lets you stand in an empty Sistine Chapel for 10 min before the crowds. Worth it once in your life.

€160 (early-access) ≈ A$264
12:00

St. Peter's Basilica + dome climb

Free entry. €10pp for dome (551 steps, partial elevator). View over St Peter's Square.

14:00

Lunch at Pizzarium (Bonci) · 15-min walk from Vatican

Best pizza al taglio in Rome. By gram. Try potato-rosemary + mortadella-pistachio. €25.

16:00

Castel Sant'Angelo + Tiber rooftop terrace

Hadrian's mausoleum → escape tunnel to Vatican. €13pp. Rooftop = perfect Tiber sunset photo.

19:30

Dinner at Roscioli (book 4 wks ahead)

Probably the most-loved restaurant in Rome. THE carbonara. €110 for two.

Day 27 · Friday Jan 8 — Colosseum + final day

Ancient Rome · Pantheon · last dinner
Final day
08:30

Colosseum 09:00 — INCLUDE Arena Floor + Underground

€36pp. Underground (gladiator waiting area) only opened to public in 2021. Go.

€72 ≈ A$119
11:00

Roman Forum + Palatine Hill (included)

Use the free Rick Steves audio app. Bring water. ~2h.

13:30

Lunch at Trattoria Pennestri (Ostiense)

Modern Roman, less touristy than the centre. €70 for two.

15:30

Pantheon (€5pp)

2,000-yr-old concrete dome. Stand under the oculus. Pope Francis is buried here.

17:00

Piazza Navona · Bernini's fountains · gelato at Gelateria del Teatro

19:30

FINAL dinner at Pierluigi (Piazza dei Ricci)

Beloved Roman, seafood-led, outdoor heated terrace. €130 for two. The proper send-off.

22:00

Last walk · Ponte Sisto + Trastevere by night · pack

Day 28 · Saturday Jan 9 — Fly home ✈

Rome → Singapore → Melbourne
Travel home
09:00

Late breakfast · slow pack · check out

11:00

Leonardo Express Termini → FCO (32 min, €14pp)

€28 ≈ A$46
14:35

Singapore Airlines SQ357 FCO → SIN (12h overnight)

Land Singapore ~09:10. Optional: 1–2 night stopover (Marina Bay Sands, hawker food, Gardens by the Bay) before the final leg — breaks the 24h journey, lands you in MEL recovered instead of zombie.

~02:00

SQ207 SIN → MEL (7h 30m)

Land Melbourne early next morning.

Day +1 or +2

Home · take 2 days off work to recover

Eat avocado toast. Unpack slowly. Pop back into this site once a year to remember.